DefinePK

Abstract

Cocoa butter consist of stearic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, linoleic acid and vitamin E. It can be used as additional ingredient or raw material for cosmetics formulation in emulsion form. One of the emulsion type that widely used as base for skincare product is water in oil (W/O) emulsion. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of water concentration on the W/O emulsion and its stability based on cocoa butter for cosmetic raw material. W/O emulsion was made by mixing water phase in oil phase at temperature 700C until homogeneous for 1 hour then allowed to harden at room temperature. In this study the water concentration were varied 12%, 16%, 20%, 24%, 28% and 32%. The characterization carried out were physical appearance, hardness, homogeneity, droplet size, melting point, chemical functional group and sensory test. The study showed that water concentration affected W/O emulsion final product in parameter of texture, melting point and droplets size. The formulation with higher water content produce softer texture, lower melting point, lower hardness and increase droplets size. However, all formulation showed good homogeneity and stability for 5 weeks observation at room temperature. There was no significant change in color, aroma and consistency of physical appearance and there was no phase separation occurred. The absence of evolution in FTIR spectra also indicated that the W/O emulsion also chemically stable during the storage. Finally, the formulation assessment was done based on the sensory test where the formulation with water content 20% was the most preferred formulation with an average score of 6.61.